Visiting the Grand Canyon

On Day 3 of our vacation in Sedona we took a trip to see the Grand Canyon, by way of the Grand Canyon Railway in Williams, AZ. We got up early to get there as the “cowboy show” at the depot began at 9 AM and the train boarded at 9:30 AM. The twisty Hwy 89 Alternate kept us occupied as it guided us through Oak Creek Canyon, with its varied topography and beautiful views.

We arrived just before the show began though it wasn’t worth the rush: Travis was uninterested in the cowboy show and never sat down for it while Hallie watched for a few minutes and declared it boring. Instead, Travis and I viewed the trains, both moving and static, around the depot.

We soon joined Kelly’s parents and all of us took our seats on the train. The train left promptly from the station and I was soon marveling at how professional the crew was. This railroad is very well run, and not a part-time excursion train (think New Hope Valley Railway). Robert, our car’s Passenger Service Attendant, gave us great information on our ride and our destination and kept us entertained without being overbearing. It was obvious he loves his job and his attitude was infectious.

We settled into seats in the middle of the coach, which was a restored commuter coach that once ran between Boston and Maine, and enjoyed the passing scenery. Occasionally a passenger would spot an animal racing across the plains and everyone would look out the window but for the most part there were sage brushes, dirt, an the occasional distant mountain peak to see.

Occasionally, the 65-mile-long track would change up and the train would slow to 20 MPH or slower from its usual speed of 40 MPH. A track crew was working on one section and the mountain switchbacks near the Canyon also kept the train moving slowly. We simply enjoyed the extended view of the scenery these slowdowns provided.

The train offers entertainment for the long ride out, with performers making their way through the trains. One character played an Old West marshal, complete with fake gun and badge. Musical performers also worked through the train, with one playing guitar and telling funny stories and another playing accordian. It kept things interesting.

After the lengthy ride, the train soon pulled into the station at the top of the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. We had to wait while the train was shuffled a bit as it wouldn’t fit: the holiday crowds stretched the usual 3 or 4 car train into a 15 car train. Once on the train platform (and through the large crowd) got our bearings and wandered up to the Canyon itself.

Many things have been written about the Grand Canyon and many writers have described it better than I could. I knew what to expect but still I was suitably impressed with its massiveness. It was so big that I couldn’t help but suspect that the whole thing was simply painted on a backdrop hanging back from the cliff. It was just too big to fully believe. I knew immediately that if I couldn’t hike to the bottom of it I would never appreciate just how big it is. Unfortunately, with only a three hour wait until the train took us back, I wouldn’t get the chance.

We walked along the sidewalk bordering the South Rim Village and took in the views. A squirrel obviously used to tourists (and their lunches) ran along the wall, eyeing unattended sandwiches. People gawked at the Canyon and posed in front of it. I kept looking for the nearest trail down.

Hallie, Kelly’s dad, and I made it to the top of Bright Angel trail, with Kelly returning a balking Travis to her mom’s care. The three of us hiked onto the muddy and icy trail: dodging mud, returning tourists, and mule droppings. Though the melting snow made the train slippery, Hallie, Neil and I enjoyed the challenge, taking lots of photographs. Kelly caught up with us in time to see a California Condor on the ledge below us. After judging that the rest of the trail would be more challenging than we were ready for, we returned back up the trail and rejoined Linda and Travis at the top.

We began to get hungry, so we waited in a short line at the “Fountain” restaurant for some sandwiches. It turned out that the massive crowd was causing food shortages so we ordered whatever was available rather than wait on hot dogs and turkey sandwiches to be replenished. As we ate in the sun outside of the restaurant we watched as the short line grew to a much longer line. We had timed that one just right.

After checking out the El Tovar Hotel and the Hopi House one last time, we reboarded the train for the 65-mile trip home. Nearing Williams again, the railroad staged the obligatory “train robbery,” with a “bandit” walking through the train collecting tips. It was too intense for some of the younger train passengers and I found it a bit distracting. Our kids seemed to like it, though.

The train soon pulled into the Williams depot again. The kids handed Robert some pictures they had drawn and we departed for the Mexican restaurant across the street. After eating some tasty and huge burritos we headed back to Sedona for the night.

Though we didn’t hike far into the Grand Canyon it was a grand way to spend the day.